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Kinetic 1/48 E2C Hawkeye Build Series, Part 8A

3 hours 52 min ago
Tried to get the latest installment in before a doctor's appointment. Will repost when I get back with better photos. Tried to add ten photos and had to reduce the image size which resulted in lower quality/grainy appearance. My apologies.

Kinetic 1/48 E2C Hawkeye Build Series, Part 8

3 hours 56 min ago
Hi all, Here's the latest on the E2C 2000. The canopy was masked with Montex Mini Mask (# SM 48321). Not only do they fit perfectly, you get a double set so you can mask both the inside and outside if you choose. I got mine from Sprue Brothers, but the Montex website is montex-mask.com. One advantage to Kinetic's canopy approach is that it includes a section of the fuselage. Since the canopy isn't a perfect fit...probably the result of a replacement part due to a short shot in the kit...it allows you to putty and sand any problem seams with relative ease. Incidentally, unless the Kinetic policy has changed, when you request a replacement part, they won't acknowledge the request. Just send the part when they get around to running the kit mold again. This means that your needed part will eventually show up in your mailbox anywhere from a few weeks to a couple of months or more later. Remember I said the wing fold joints and nacelle/wing joints fit perfectly? Well, they do. Mostly. But when I looked close, I found a slight step in the starboard wing step joint and a similar problem with the nacelle/wing joints. This is likely the result of the kit parts fitting as tightly as they do and it's something you need to watch out for. In any event, the problem isn't severe and can be taken care of without losing much if any surface detail, which can be easily restored. The port wing joint, nacelle area just took a little sanding and no putty at all. Whether the bulged side window...which is a separate piece that has to be installed before mounting the canopy...shifted during canopy installation or I simply screwed up the initial installation, I can't say. In any event, I had to carefully cut out the window and reinstall correctly. As it turned out, at least on my kit, the window was slightly too large to fit properly so it took several test fits and very gentle trimming to get things right. The eight-blade props are built up from a pair of four-bladers. Each blade also has an engraved leading edge that needs to be painted steel. Checking references, the steel sections appear to be everything from dark steel to bright aluminum. How much of this is due to light reflection and/or viewing angle I can't say. So for model purposes I chose to go with Model Master Metalizer Non-Buffing Aluminum. In an earlier installment, i installed brass tubing in the nacelles in preparation for removable props. To complete that system, I installed a length of 3/32" tubing in the back of each prop. Length of the tubing doesn't matter, within reason, and you'll have to align the new shafts with ye olde Mk. I eyeball computer. Done right, they'll spin like a whirligig if you hold the model in front of a fan. One of the eight-blade props completely finished. The white tips are decals and are designed to fold over to create white tips both front and back. It works for the most part, but you'll probably need to do a little bit of touchup on the back with Model Master Flat White. I did. And of course manufacturers logos go on the front of each blade, positioned so that the beltline of the logo aligns with the bottom line of the steel/aluminum leading edge. The decals from the kit sheet are appropriately thin, but they take a long time to release from their backing sheet. Since there are a total of 32 decals for the two props, you should plan on a relatively extended decal session. Also, I wound up using tweezers to handle and position all of the logos and some of the tip decals. The side windows have been corrected and reinstalled. The canopy section/fuselage seam has been eliminated. Last but not least, Finally the nose cone was added. The nose cone is indexed with a locator pin. As a result, the bottom part of the seam is a perfect fit but the top seam requires a little sanding to bring things into line. With that done, all that's left is a final shot of primer, finish paint and decals. Incidentally, 'all' is not as simple as it sounds considering the large number of decals.

Boba Fett and the Tatooine War Bird

6 hours 50 sec ago
This model is another model from deep in the stash. I remember buying the model from the Buy and Sell section of a forum. The sculptor was Chris Lynch, and looking at Boba's size, I'm guessing it's around 1/10th scale. I have no further info on it. Even doing a web search, that title gets exactly 1 hit from a guy on a Star Wars Models website who had it listed on his "wants" page. It's not from one of the movies, but maybe a comic or some book? The kit came in about 10 parts. Boba's body and the bird; Boba's head, his two arms and rifle, the two sand people heads, a gun in a holster, some bag that had no apparent place to go, and the two parts of the birds restraint. It also came with a length of cord, and a length of "pleather". The resin was mostly in good shape, but it did need a little work. I didn't think to take a pic before starting, but here we are with most of the parts attached - The bird was tackled first. With it supposedly from Tatooine, I figured it was to blend into a sandy, rocky background. So the bird was made up of browns and other neutral colors. I figured the model needed a splash of color, so blue was added to the bird's crest and around his eyes. This color choice will come in handy later. The ground work is just a dark sand and and an orange ocher Next turning my attention to Boba, I started filling in the colors that I remembered. There was a few times where I had to look up exactly what color went where. At this point I also painted in the Sand People heads with Iraqi Sand and White Aluminum for the metal parts. Around their mouth was a brown leather color and the bottom of the mouth looked really dark. I ended up painting it a German Gray. The blaster was painted with VMC Gunmetal, and then highlighted lightly in silver. The silver was also used to create the scratches around his armor. It was here I thought the bird needed a little more color, so I took the Cavalry Red I used for his gauntlets, and highlighted the birds feathers. This is where I left it for the day. A few days later I was back and it was time to finish up Boba. The first thing to do was paint the backpack. Here's where a little indecision came in. He seems to have changed his uniform between ESB and ROTJ. In ESB his back pack was mostly green (also green gauntlets), but in ROTJ the backpack was more colorful including an ocher color, a red, and even blue! So to harmonize the model; the red is the same color as the gauntlets, and I reduced the saturation of the blue by adding black, and then I lightened it by adding the gray from his jumpsuit. While this was drying, I glued in the restraints to the birds collar. When the CA on that dried, I wrapped the pleather around the collar, and then according to the line diagram that came with the kit, around the saddle horn and back to the other part of the collar. I dipped the cord in Citadel's Agrax Earthshade, glued it in loops and then just hung it around the Sand People heads. This was another model I could fiddle with forever, so instead I called this one done. Thanks for looking.

Repair Assistance Needed

Wed, 2018-10-17 11:39
Hi all, I received a phone call from a 78 year old gentleman in Norwich, NY. His grandson damaged a Sopwith Camel model...knocked the top wing off...and he needs it repaired. Wingspan of the model is approximately 15" and was purchased ready built. It is not a kit. It isn't practical for him to ship it to me in Texas for repairs, so I would like to put him together with someone in the Syracuse/Norwich/Binghamton area who would be willing to do the repairs for him. Anyone interested, please reply to my email at tennexican@gmail.com and I will provide the gentleman's name and full contact information.

To all the gizmologist- how to wire an aircraft

Wed, 2018-10-17 11:14
This is for all the gizmologist out there whe randomly run wires all over an aircraft. This is how real aircraft are wired. All carefully run and orderly. Bundles properly secured and tied. The is a rewire job on a KC-135R

Albatross D-V

Tue, 2018-10-16 23:15
This is the Eduard weekend edition Albatross D-V kit built OOTB with the kit markings. I did this one so I could knock the "mauve scheme" off of my bucket list! I did paint the red trim on the tail instead of trying to use the kit decals there. Ceramic Wonder Wire was used for the rigging. The Eduard Albatross is typical of most all their WWI kits; well detailed as kitted and true to fidelity to scale. Where they fall down in comparison to the "older" biplane kits we grew up with (that were not so nice) is that they're harder to build. The "scale pins" on the cabanes and V struts make it difficult to get positive fit and alignment. They're engineered towards accuracy, not towards being builder friendly, especially to the biplane novice. That said, it makes for an attractive model to put on your shelf when done! Critiques, comments, and questions welcome, as always! GIL

Moto, Civil, Sea

Tue, 2018-10-16 16:04
Moto: 1/6 or 1/8 or the ever-popular Protar 1/9 scale of modern street bikes, with a distinct preference for Indians (Roadmaster, plox!), KTM & BMW adventure bikes and Triumphs Civil: A real 1/144 CV-880 & 990. The most beautiful airliners to ever grace the skies. The Glencoe rehash is OK, but c'mon, man. Sea: A modern 1/350 N/S Savannah; a selection of modern big-name cruise ships in 1/700 - RC, MSC, Norwegian, etc.; 1/350 modern European river cruise "longboats"

P-47D centerline drop tank

Tue, 2018-10-16 09:35
Hello all. I'm building the Academy P-47D 1/72 bubbletop. Doing "No Guts No Glory" from 78th FG 84 FS. Microscale sheet 72-886. Thinking of arming it with 2-500lb bombs on the wings and a paper drop tank on the centerline. On my attachment, I mean the 200 gal belly tank. I know you don't see a lot of bubbletop D's with the centerline paper tank. Does anyone think this is incorrect? thanks

New Review: Tru-Color Paint Set- Armored: Olive Drab: 1939-1956

Tue, 2018-10-16 00:54
Tru-Color Paint was formed in 2008 by Rick Galazzo and Scott Cohen, both of whom come from extensive backgrounds in formulating paint on the commercial scale. They set out on their own to develop this paint line of solvent based paint by reformulating the old Accupaint formulation to flow better and give a more glossy appearance after drying. They currently offer over 600 colors offered with more to follow. Sets and single bottles are available and include lines for railroad, automotive, and military aircraft and armament lines. The specific set I tested was specifically for armored subjects painted olive drab from the years 1939-1956 and include the following colors in 1 oz. bottles: read more View the full article

New Review: Republic P-47D Thunderbolt “Bubbletop”

Tue, 2018-10-16 00:29
Christmas came early this year for me when I received the email that this beastie was available for review. I am incredibly thankful to Kinetic Models for providing this kit for review and to the review corps higher-ups for trusting someone brand new to the group for having faith in me to not only build this thing, but in a timely manner to boot. It is a re-kitting of the Vintage Fighter Series kit released in 2008. I won't say the ride was completely smooth...but it was a fun ride regardless. read more View the full article

Miss Pumpkin Witch: WIP

Mon, 2018-10-15 13:43
After every build I usually clean up around the desk, and I notice this little mini which had fallen on the floor and got covered by a box. She's Miss Pumpkin Witch, from The Predastore. Since Halloween is right around the corner I decided to move this model to the front of the line. The 1/35 mini is part of the pin-up limited edition series. Mine was number 18 of 200. The model comes in 3 parts - the body/pumpkin, the arm with the knife, and the hat. As usual it's starts with a two tone priming - And then a base coat. What you're seeing here are the stocks before trying a smoky color. That ended up not working and decided to just take it easy and make a very pale purple stockings - Here we have a few highlights on the pumpkin, skin and dress. I also started detailing her face. WOW it's tiny! Thanks for looking.

New Review: British Ironclads, 1860-1875: HMS Warrior and the Royal Navy's "Black Battlefleet"

Mon, 2018-10-15 09:44
Osprey's newest addition to the New Vanguard series tackles one of the revolutions in naval construction and warfare - the ironclad. In one of the slimmer editions of this series, this volume follows the tried and true formula of the series. Using a mix of original artwork and contemporary illustrations, the author examines the origins, armor, ordnance, propulsion and crew accommodations on early British Ironclads. Unfortunately, if you are looking for service histories of the ships of the Black Battlefleet, they are not included in the narrative. That is the only disappointment in this volume. read more View the full article

New Review: Northrop Delta Mk. II/III

Mon, 2018-10-15 09:21
THE KIT The kit consists of five light grey styrene sprues and one clear unit. Many parts, especially on Sprue D, are listed as not to be used. Some bombs and racks are also provided on Sprue G, but there is no reference in the instructions as to which variants carried them. More good fodder for the spares box. The parts are well molded with very little flash, although the window openings required a little bit of trimming. Concerning the window arrangement, there is apparently another version of this kit with a straight row of rectangular windows, but this one had four square and four round windows, plus some oddly shaped windows by the cockpit, and, of course, the pilot's windshield. There is adequate interior detail, including a complete cockpit, some rear cargo compartment detail, including radios, a seat, and several cameras. There is even a machine gun mounted in a ventral position. I can't imagine why this was installed, but I included it in my model read more View the full article

New Review: International Autumn 2018 Volume 49/3

Mon, 2018-10-15 08:57
The latest journal of Cross & Cockade International - Autumn 2018, features a front cover photograph of Jean Chaput in front of his Nieuport 11, N940. This color 1916 photograph was based on the Autochrome technology developed by the brothers Auguste and Louis Lumiere. The inside rear cover features color illustrations by Juanita Franzl of Lt. Dawson's and Lt N. E. Williams' Ship's Camels. The outside rear cover features color illustrations by David Mechin of Jean Chaput's aircraft. If you check out the web site link above, you can get additional sample pics of the current issue. read more View the full article

New Review: P.Z.L. 23 KARAS

Sun, 2018-10-14 23:58
HISTORY The PZL P-23 Karas was one of the most important combat aircraft in the inventory of the Polish Military Aviation prior to the outbreak of World War II. Designed as a three place light bomber and reconnaissance type in the early thirties, and powered by the Polish-built Bristol Pegasus radial engine, the p-23 was placed in production in time to be available during the German invasion in 1939. Numerous units were equipped with the P-23A and P-23B versions, and these operated in the light bomber and reconnaissance role during the time that Poland was defending itself against the Germans. Later, when the Russians issued their "stab in the back" invasion, most of the surviving P-23's were flown to Romania, where some of them soldiered on until the end of the war. A few were also exported to Bulgaria before the war, and these were redesignated P-43A due to a change in engines. read more View the full article

New Review: Scale Aircraft Conversions Airfix Me 262A-1A Landing Gear

Sun, 2018-10-14 14:07
Scale Aircraft Conversions (SAC) produces white metal replacement parts for kits in a variety of scales. Some of their landing gear sets are for a variety of kits and some sets are designed for a specific model. The white metal sets are designed to support the weight of a specific model without warping that can be seen with kit styrene landing gear. The parts are for the Airfix Me-262 are well cast and had no flash or other area that needed to be sanded. I bent one of the struts when removing from the sprue but could straighten it out easily. I had to put heavier weight in the front of the jet than anticipated so it would not be a tail sitter and the SAC landing gear stood up to the weight very well. When gluing the landing gear to the aircraft I used CA and the parts fit perfectly without any modifications to the join areas. read more View the full article

New Review: Mission Models paint part 2 (Clear Coats)

Sun, 2018-10-14 00:00
This part 2 of a three-part review of Mission Models paints. Part 3 will be Metallics The Clear Coats Shortly after releasing their second round of paint colors Mission Models released three clear coat products to protect the paint once it has been applied to a model. The Clear coatings are Flat Clear, Semi-Gloss Clear and Gloss Clear. read more View the full article

New Review: SH-3 A/D Sea King

Sat, 2018-10-13 01:24
AFV Club is a Taiwan-based venture, founded by a hobby shop owner in the late 1980's. With a growing catalogue of kits in various scales and genres (armor, aircraft, ships, figures and accessories), AFV have made a name for themselves as a niche supplier of subjects. This little gem is no exception. The Sea King, entering service in 1961, was Sikorsky's first truly amphibious helo and one of the first to use twin turboshaft engines. Originally intended as an ASW bird, the type has had a long and illustrious history doing SAR, transport, medevac and AEW duty. The USMC has operated Sea Kings under HMX-1 as presidential transports that serve as "Marine One" when the President is onboard. As recently as 2009, some 600 Sea Kings remained in service with multiple military and private operators. read more View the full article

New Review: Eduard FW-190A Tface Masks

Fri, 2018-10-12 15:22
For as long as I can remember I've always painted the outside of my canopy framing the interior color first and then painted the exterior color overtop of that. This ensured that the interior color showed through the canopy. But there was always one thing that bothered me a little bit, the color was always glossy. Well Eduard has finally fixed that with their new line of TFace Masking sets. This particular set is designed for the FW-190A series of Eduard models, including the A-8/R2 Rammjaeger. The masks are made of the infamous Kabuki tape so they are flexible and very easy to use. There are instructions to show you which masks to use where, including which is the inside masks and which are the outside ones. Placing the masks is fairly easy but care has to be exercised when adding them to the interior as there are no panel lines to follow. I recommend that you add the interior masks first and then the exterior ones. Placing the exterior ones is easy enough. read more View the full article

New Review: Eduard FW-190A-5 ZOOM

Fri, 2018-10-12 15:08
So you bought the Weekend or the Overtree FW-190A-5 but you don't really want to paint the instrument panel and you'd like to have some seatbelts. What do you do? Well Eduard has the answer. They provide you with the pre-painted photo etch brass fret that comes in the Profipack kit. Personally I think that the ZOOM sets are what really makes it a Weekend or Overtree kit. This fret is typically released when the Overtree kit is released. I think that they are a bargain. You get one pre-painted photo etch with all the parts you need for the cockpit and a few other places. The key is you get the seatbelts and the instrument panel. Those two things alone are worth the price of admission. Also included are the side panels and some various other photo etch pieces for the outside of the model, but this set is primarily concerned with sprucing up the cockpit. read more View the full article