Is this going to be allowed in out of the box categories? Dak
Our hobby is strong but changing. I recently went to a great show in Alabama. It had almost 500 entries. A large turnout by any means. The thing that caught my eye was that were probably 100 or so entries in the Sci Fi categories. There was only 3 planned categories for all of Sci Fi. The club made some quick decisions and made a bunch of splits. I am planning on attending another show in the same region in a couple of months and they only have 1 planned category for Sci Fi. The vast majority of us cut our teeth on a jet or a tank. Many of us were ecstatic when our first candle apple paint job turned out on our first roadster. I just don't see why we are having such a hard time embracing the new categories on the block. You will not find a show with less than a half a dozen pre determined armor, aircraft and car categories. We always talk about growing the hobby. About embracing the next generation. We have to understand that the next generation may be more interested in building a Gundam than a Panzer. The shows that we put on are for fellowship and some light hearted competition. I think that we might just be ignoring a section of builders that are waiting to join us. I bet I could drag most of you into a room full of armor aircraft or cars and ask you to quickly split them up into logical categories. But if you were looking at 50 Gundam or Mechs, would you know where to start? How to do guys feel that the Sci Fi community is being represented? What can we do to encourage participation from modelers from the non traditional subjects?
I thought that there was a deadline of Sept 15th for votes to be received either by the online voting system or by paper ballots being sent to the IPMS Office Manager's address. Checking today I see no note that voting has been closed, and in fact, the message on the Online Voting System link shows it is still open. What is the deadline date? When will the results be announced? And I assume that, as in the recent past, the newly elected will take office on Nov 1. Is that correct?
Andy Yanchus, former Project Manager at Aurora for many years, expert on kit history, and co-author of the Aurora Monster Scenes book (with Dennis Prince), and later a colorist for Marvel Comics, died Saturday, 11 September 2021, aged 75, after a longish illness. He was staying with his sister, Pat, at her home in Florida, having moved down, he had hoped temporarily, from his home in New York. Recently he had been working with Atlantis Models as a consultant. (info via Mat Irvine, Space Modelers group)
Can anybody confirm that the wheel wells of the XP-55 were actually yellow? The Modelsvit instructions show Humbrol 81 Pale Yellow which I assume to be zinc chromate yellow is the color to be used. I haven't found any pictures online in color that show the wheel wells.
Just wondering if anyone organizing the convention in San Marcos knows? Are you designing a new decal sheet or are you going to reuse the original. If you are going to design a new one, it might be fun to have a class or special award for models built with the 2020 sheet.
Hello everybody, First time on here although I have a presents on several other forums. My wife and I live in the Boise ID area. I have been modeling since 65 (4 years old) with my father showing me. The first kit I remember with him was the 1/96 Revell USS Constitution. I almost bought that same kit at the Nats just for sentimental reasons. In 69 I built my first kit by myself, the Hawk 1/48 Cessna Skymaster. My main interests are 700 and 350 WW2 to modern ships, WW2 to modern 72nd aircraft, sci-fi and sometimes a car or two. I do some 72nd armor but that's maybe once a year. Went to my first Nats in Vegas and my wife and I are looking forward to Omaha in 22.
I've started in on building the HK 1/32 B-17E/F Flying Fortress for a client. This will be a L-O-N-G term project as he wants almost every aftermarket item available added and the model built as "Old 666", the B-17E that fought off a dozen or more Zeros on a mapping mission over Bougainville in '43. I decided to start with the Eduard Brassin engines. The kit engines are indeed anemic, especially for such an expensive 1/32 kit. Each Brassin resin engine includes a sharply cast cowling, open cowl flaps, and several cowl sections in case you want to display it with the cowl off and the parts on the ground nearby. But NOTE: Eduard sells these "by the number", as in "engine #1, #2; etc. It is important that you order #1-#4 if getting all of them, or that you order the correct individual one for the correct spot on the wing because otherwise the cowl flaps may not have the exhaust cut out in the right spot! 1 of the 4 supplied to me was wrong and I had to modify the cowl flaps for that station. The resin engines are very detailed front and back. If you're NOT going to display it with the cowl off, then nothing for the back is really needed. This can save a LOT of time as one of the biggest resin casting stubs to be removed is on the firewall mount in the back. However, without the rear engine stuff, the engines need to be altered to fit onto the kit mounting pegs. This is easily done by drilling a 9/32" hole in the resin engine bank, which allows it to be slid onto the peg, and also be adjusted forward or back to get it positioned correctly inside the cowl. The Eduard instructions leave a little to be desired....the illustrations clearly show where everything goes, but they're not really numbered as to which to do in what order. To a degree this is self evident...but later on in the assembly process if you get out of place it can make adding some of the parts tougher. The other problem is that some of the parts need trimming to fit well, especially the push rods. Each of them needed trimming on BOTH ends to make them fit between the crankcase and the rocker arms. I also quickly abandoned trying to use the Eduard PE ignition wires. They appear much too flat (2 dimensional) for 1/32 and are much harder to manipulate than the solder wire I used instead. All in all, there are 45 parts that make up each engine, and that's without using anything on the back side! Here's pics of my progress this week...... #3 detailed... Overview of test fitting the engines on the right wing Close up showing how engine bank is drilled to fit the mounting peg in the center, and the fit of the cowling to the wing Engine #4 (above) has since been detailed, but I still have the other 2 to build up. It takes about 1.5hrs to build each one! By the way, the offset/canted prop governor is correct, and even its "base" is keyed to help align it that way. Settle in and grab some popcorn....this one will take a while! Gil
It took me awhile, but I finally got some finished pics of my 1/72 scale Modelsvit An-124 "Ruslan" aka NATO code name: Condor. I took these on the concrete sidewalk beneath my balcony stairs. I also placed a model of a 1/72 scale Russian T-80 tank next to it for size reference. It was the easiest thing I could pull from my storage tub holding my Russian vehicles. For your perusal gentlemen.... It isn't the best shape it could be in, but it is done. I will possibly work on improving things a bit more later on and might shoot some updated pics then. For now, this bird is done and will be finding a spot on my ceiling soon. Thanks all for looking in, comments are welcome.
GA is generally abused at Nats. People that are members know it's cheaper to go GA if they a) are not entering or b) aren't aircraft modelers looking for a "free" decal sheet to be included. It's all about saving $$ for the vendor room. Scott said Omaha would not encourage GA "skipping" by not offering 4-day passes. I have long been of the opinion that if walk-up registration is $55, GA should be $15/day as it encourages the membership to register, thus lowering the risk to the sponsoring chapter. While working the GA desk on Wednesday, there were a bunch of guys buying the Family 4-day pass for their "cousins"! Was I supposed to confront them to prove relations? People saw a way to save $20 and abused it, IMO. (I'm pretty sure they weren't all related) I think we need to have a serious discussion about this topic for the future shows. GA shouldn't be ended, but "regulated" by the Society. Note: I started a new topic, moving it from the moving models topic.
Built this one for a co-worker who crewed P-3s in the Navy. Built OOTB; but I did have to make the bat tail art and paint the wing walks since the old kit decals were pretty well shot and I could find no aftermarket decals for VP-24. Now on to that 1/32 B-17E! GIL
All, I’ve started on the construction of the above. I’m trying to find some accurate reference material. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Hopefully there might be a few Cobra drivers on this feed that can help. Much appreciated. Chris
Howdy all! Recently I have been trying to get one of my friends in to model building after he expressed interest in owning some World War 2 plane models. To be honest I am not really sure how to start him off and I am thinking about recommending him one of those Airfix starter kits from Amazon (we don't have a hobby shop nearby). Do any of you have any good suggestions for starting kits and supplies that are budget friendly?
I saw a few pics from Nats that were group/club builds. What are the requirements for entry into that category and how are they judged? Thanks Cal
Where there any bids on 2024? Mike
Is there any information available for the 2022 National Convention? Dates? Accommodation?
Pretty straight forward question. Need to get in touch with whoever is responsible for vendor tables. Thanks, Dave
G'day. I have a 1/35 (Polish manufacturer) kit of the 7TP light tank. This was used around 1938-1939. They call for a three tone color scheme of Olive-Green (Khaki), dark brown, and sand yellow (ochre). Could anyone suggest paint colors, or should I just go with whatever Testors/Humbrol paint labels? I think the Olive green may be a light greenish tint, and the sand yellow somewhere in the Middlestone tint. Any help from my "associates" is greatly appreciated. Joe Vattilana
Many years ago, 1 of the decal companies produced sheets of stripes; various colors & widths. They were very good quality, dense colors, thin, & easy to apply. Does anybody know if sheets of stripes are available now? I'm looking for red, yellow, black, white, blue, & possibly green.
Im building an Sa2 missile from trumpeter and the rocket comes in two halves. How should I approach removing the seam between the two parts? Im not really a fan of putty/fillers and know you can use plastic cement for this but I wanted to ask around before I attempt it.