Syndicate content
The Forums
Updated: 14 min 7 sec ago

Hello from Houston TX

Fri, 2020-07-03 13:35
Hey all! Just joined IPMS and the forums here. Been back into building models for 10 yrs now. I mainly build 1/48 aircraft but occasionally build other things.

Boy, did I screw up. Help!

Thu, 2020-07-02 18:00
Working on commissioned article that is a vignette incorporating a motorcycle cop making a traffic stop on a 24th scale farm tractor and its driver. Problem is that somehow I ended up with a 35th scale standing motorcycle cop instead of the required 24th scale. I know. Stupid, stupid. Worse, I didn't realize it was 35th until I started to position everything on a base. Yeah, REALLY stupid! So far I have been unable to find a standing motorcycle cop in 24th scale. Since figures aren't my strong suit, meaning I'm not familiar with the various figure manufacturers, here I am needing your help. If anyone can help me solve this problem, I would be more than grateful, because without the cop the vignette can't be completed or the article finished. HELP!

Basic Airbrush Questions

Thu, 2020-07-02 14:36
I have a Paasche VL airbrush and D500 compressor that I bought probably 30 years ago and haven't used in maybe 15 years. Decided to break it out this week. I took it apart, cleaned it and set it up to spray water. Looks like its working fine, and now to try some paint. But first I have some questions that date back to my last sessions using the tool. I did a search for 'airbrush techniques and basics' but didn't return any relevant results. I've read that 20 psi is a good starting point for spraying pressure. I have my regulator set to 20 psi at 'idle', but I notice that the pressure drops to approx 10 psi when flowing. Is this OK? Typically my paint jobs are not very big so I've only used the open spray cup (1/4 oz.). In the past I would use a pipette to put a couple drops of solvent in the bottom of the cup, followed by paint from the bottle, and then finish with a few more drops of thinned paint from the pipette. (After taking paint from the bottle and delivering it to the spray cup, I put the 'dirty' pipette in a small bottle of thinner, draw some up and put that mixture in the cup.) Then I use a toothpick to mix the paint in the cup. I figure the initial drops of solvent should be the first thing to go through the spray tip if I don't mix it completely for some reason. I would love to hear your comments on this! Of course I have thought of pre-mixing the paint, but this seems like it would waste more paint than I actually sprayed (transferring from mixing bottle to spray cup). I bought an airbrush holder; U-shaped wire thingy, but it seems no matter how I place it in the holder, between the hose fitting on the bottom of the brush and the spray cup, it won't sit like I would like it to, i.e. ready to pick up and use. I need to keep the spray cup off the brush and insert it after taking it out of the holder. Did I just buy the wrong type? The holder that came with the airbrush is sheet metal and actually works great, but it needs to be mounted flat to the work table whereas the wire one mounts to the side and holds the brush above the table. Finally, clean-up. I will usually pour any remaining paint from the spray cup back into the bottle. I have a jar with thinner ready that is large enough to immerse the spray cup and I put it in there to soak. I also have the 1 oz glass spray bottle ready with thinner and insert that into the airbrush and spray into a rag until clear. Paasche's instructions say I only need to remove the needle and clean it, so that takes care of the brush. But that leaves the following items to clean: spray cup, jar that it was soaking in, small thinner jar that got contaminated when I put the paint pipette into it, the pipette, and the 1 oz spray jar I used to clean the brush because inevitably when I remove it some color backflows into the bottle. Plus of course the mixing bottle if I used one. And this needs to be done for each color change. No wonder I haven't used it in 15 years! Am I making a bigger deal out of this than needs to be? Looking forward to your feedback.

Kasl Hobbies RF-5E Detail Set

Wed, 2020-07-01 22:48
Taking a long shot. I ordered & (finally) received Kasl Hobbies 1/48th scale RF-5E detail set. The only problem is most of the information is in Chinese. I checked the website shown on the instructions. The website is all in Chinese with no option for an English translation. The paint call outs are for Gunze Mr. Color which I should be able to cross to Model Master & Tamiya and I think I understand the diagrams well enough that I shouldn't have any problems. It would be nice to have a translation of the instructions. Do any of you read Chinese well enough to translate the attached.

From 1:350 to 1:400

Wed, 2020-07-01 15:08
Can anyone help? I am wondering how to resize color templates from 1:350 scale to 1:400 scale for a ship model I am planning to work on. Specifically, I have the Heller 1:400 Gneisenau. If anyone here has any ideas, I would appreciate it. Thank you in advance.

Looking for sprue B of Academy CH-46E “Bull Frog”

Wed, 2020-07-01 09:19
Looking for sprue B of Academy CH-46E “Bull Frog” or the specific part B21 which is the left landing gear. Thanks for any assistance.

The Duke Finishes Four Armor in June

Tue, 2020-06-30 21:18
Well, I was hoping to have these finished much sooner, but life got in the way a lot. At least I got them done before June ended! Here they are, three Abrams and a Paladin. Revell 1/72 scale US Army M-109 Paladin, Vietnam: Flyhawk 1/72 scale US Army M-1A2 Abrams SEP tank: Flyhawk 1/72 scale US Army M-1A2 Abrams SEP tank with Mine Plow: Tiger Models 1/72 scale M-1A2 Abrams SEP TUSK I: And that's all for now. Thanks all for looking in, comments are most welcome.

Star Trek's Convair Connection

Mon, 2020-06-29 18:01
Star Trek fans are more than likely familiar with these: The man behind them, Frank (Franz) Joseph Schnaubelt, moved from Chicago to California in 1941, where he applied for work at Consolidated Vultee Aircraft as a draftsman. The sample of work he submitted was a blueprint drawing of a single-engine airplane that happened to be the personal favorite plane of his interviewer. He was hired on the spot. He took a few classes at San Diego State College (aerodynamics, higher math, and engineering), but never attained a degree. FJ worked for General Dynamics for nearly 30 years as a design engineer, both in the aerodynamics and hydrodynamics divisions. His drawings of planes appeared as illustrations in the Collier's Encyclopedia. He was part of a team that built and flew a full-size reproduction of the A-1, the first military seaplane. (He also designed the logo for the A-1 program.) His biggest claim to fame was the design of the bomb pylons on the F-111 fighter plane, for which he was given an award by Convair for cutting costs without sacrificing quality. His services were loaned to other aircraft companies (such as Ryan) by Convair due to his expertise. FJ was laid off from General Dynamics in 1969, 3 years after receiving his 25-year pin, replaced by younger men with college degrees. He always referred to the event as "taking an early retirement," but it was not voluntary. In 1973, he decided to draw the Star Trek props and ships as an intellectual exercise. The rest is history. In 1974 and 1975, these works were published by Ballantine Books as the Booklet of General Ship's Plans (a.k.a. the Enterprise Blueprints) and the Star Fleet Technical Manual. FJ attended Star Trek conventions and book signings from 1975-1983, then withdrew from most public appearances to care for his wife, who was a homebound invalid due to advanced osteoporosis and multiple strokes. He always enjoyed meeting and corresponding with Star Trek fans, and when he did attend conventions, you could always find him in the hotel lobby or on the lounge chairs by the pool, deep in conversation with a cluster of fans, even at 2:00 or 3:00 a.m. FJ died on June 2, 1994 of sudden cardiac arrest. He was only a few weeks shy of his 80th birthday. He remained bright and active, and continued to live independently until the very end; indeed, he was a guest speaker at a local San Diego science fiction convention only a month before his death. The above is taken from a 1999 interview with his daughter, published at http://www.trekplace.com/fj-kdint01.html For more on Mr Schnaubel, see the interview and the following: http://www.trekplace.com/fj-fjwilliamsint01.html (1976 interview) http://www.trekplace.com/fj-fjnewittint01.html (1982 interview) And see here for high-resolution copies of the Franz Joseph blueprints, re-scanned at 400 dpi and cleaned up: https://www.cygnus-x1.net/links/lcars/star-trek-blueprints.php

Bugatti Veyron and Chiron Car Kits

Sun, 2020-06-28 02:05
Apart from the Airfix Bugatti Veyron snap kit more like Lego and a similar Airfix Chiron on its way in 1/24 sca!e no one else has kitted these great superstars with proper plastic kits. Nothing apart from ready made did casts.

Facebook group for the 2021 Nationals,

Sat, 2020-06-27 17:33
There's now a Facebook group for the 2021 Nationals, in case anyone is interested: https://www.facebook.com/groups/270897917458272/ 2021 IPMS Nationals Las Vegas "Very Best of the West."

MJ Miniatures 1/9th scale bust 'Erich Hartmann'

Sat, 2020-06-27 00:31
Over the years, I've pretty much stayed away from figures all together, because of painting flesh. An arm or a hand exposed was ok, as long as the face was FULLY covered. About two years ago, I started incorporating figures in my dioramas. A friend of mine, in our local club, does mostly figures, painted strictly with artist oils. His results are amazing. He's given me quite a bit of info on how he does his. His main advice was to check on YouTube for tutorials. I decided to get my "feet wet", starting with acrylics (some enamels for the eyes). The bust was painted with a mixture of Vallejo, and AK Flesh and Skin Colors. The leather jacket was a custom mix of two different Tamiya browns. I would usually apply a wash to his jacket for depth. I instead decided to drybrush just the high areas. I used Testors Model Master bright brown first. After it dried, the high areas looked more bronze than anything. I toned it down Naples Yellow Hue (artist oils). The cord and emblems on his hat were painted with Tamiya flat aluminum. I applied a dark wash on these items after they dried. The yellow bead around his hat is Testors yellow. The brim of his hat was painted with Tamiya gloss black. Comments and suggestions are welcome. Chris

2020 National Convention: Canceled for 2020 - Rescheduled for 2023

Thu, 2020-06-25 20:31
The following is a joint announcement from the San Marcos 2020 Convention Leadership team and the IPMS USA Executive Board. We jointly appreciate all the feedback we received regarding this year‘s convention. We’ve taken your comments and concerns into careful consideration, while maintaining an ongoing dialogue and negotiation with the Embassy Suites convention center in San Marcos. These negotiations have been proceeding carefully due to the significant financial exposure that IPMS would be subject to if we simply decided to cancel the convention unilaterally. We are now prepared to announce that the 2020 National Convention is officially canceled. While this may disappoint many, including your authors, we believe it is the prudent, safe and sensible thing to do. On a more positive note, we have been successful in negotiating the use of the Embassy Suites San Marcos location for the 2023 convention. Therefore, the rotation for the next three years, circumstances permitting, will be Las Vegas in 2021, Omaha in 2022, and San Marcos in 2023. Tentative dates for the 2023 convention will be August 2nd through the 5th. We are currently finalizing details of the contract with Embassy Suites and expect a finalized version within a week. For those who have registered already for the convention, we will be processing your refunds. For those who have booked hotel reservations at one of the convention center hotels, it will be up to you to cancel those on your own. Vendors will be refunded their money for tables as well through our vendor coordinator, Craig Gregory. Chapters and individuals who have sponsored contest categories may also receive refunds for their sponsorships. Again, we want to thank you all for your patience and support during these trying times, and hope that you recognize we have made the best possible decision for all under the circumstances. For any questions please contact John Noack at: IPMSPresident@ipmsusa.org Or Len Pilhofer at: director.nats2020@gmail.com Respectfully submitted, Len Pilhofer, 2020 Convention Chairman John Noack IPMS USA President

1/72 Helicopters

Thu, 2020-06-25 14:56
The only 1/72 helicopter I do not have is the Kaman Huskie HH-43B. The Mach2 and Airmodel kits are vacuum-formed and lack details, requiring a lot of scratch building. I believe Italeri has made a 1/72 model. I have also seen on the internet a new model by a firm called Croco Models. Where can I find either of these detailed models?

Hello from TX

Wed, 2020-06-24 14:59
Greetings from Texas. I’ve been modeling for a long time, but in the last 10 years or so, job etc. got in the way. Just getting back into the hobby and enjoying it more than ever. My son got me a new airbrush for my birthday, so I better get going with it and start working on my stash. Thanks!

1/48 Eduard F6F-5N Hellcat Nightfighter - Special Build

Tue, 2020-06-23 08:26
This build is the 1/48 Eduard F6F-5N Hellcat Nightfighter. This is Eduard’s “Weekend Edition” so it comes with some resin detail accessories like radar pod, gun barrels, exhaust pipes, and under wing antenna. I will also be adding Eduard’s photo etch cockpit detail set. I will be using the decals for VF(N)-90 that was aboard the USS Enterprise in 1945. This scheme is one of the scheme’s that comes in the kit. It will also be mounted on a Eureka XXL resin base that looks like the Enterprise flight deck. While this sounds like one of my typical builds, I’ve decided to change it up. This aircraft will be built utilizing 6 LED’s and some fiber optic lines to illuminate it. This will be my first time illuminating a 1/48 scale aircraft. The build flow will be slightly different since placement and routing of the lighting needs to be arranged. The area’s I will be illuminating are the recognition lights on the bottom of the fuselage, The wing edge landing light, the wing tip lights, the rear formation light, the two formation lights on the dorsal behind the cockpit, and finally the instrument panel. The instrument panel will be back-lit with red lights just like the real panel. This was done so the pilot could maintain his night vision. There will be 6 LED’s. One Pico size LED will be mounted in the wing for the landing light. There will be 3 Pico LED’s to backlight the dash. Then there will be two 3mm LED’s, one white and one green. The white one will illuminate the rear formation light and the three recognition lights on the bottom. To make the three different colors of the recognition lights I will paint the clear lens the correct color using Tamiya clear paints. The green LED will provide light to the two dorsal formation lights and the one wingtip light. The red wingtip light will be sourced from one of the red LED’s used to backlight the instrument panel. I will be using a battery for power. I just have not figured out where to place the battery (batteries). The LED’s require 9 to 12 volts so there are many options. If I use a standard 9V battery it will keep the model illuminated for about 12-14 hours. If I use an A23 12V battery it is physically smaller and will keep it illuminated for about 4-5 hours. Once I get to setting up the base, I will tackle the power supply. So let’s begin. For the record I will be using 0.5mm fiber optic lines. I started with the recognition lights. I taped the fuselage together and drilled the bottom of the holes in the base of where the clear lenses sit using a 0.5mm drill bit on a pin vise. I then took a 1mm sheet of styrene and made a small plate and drilled the holes in the correct locations. This was done to add support to the fiber optic lines once they are mounted. Each 6” fiber optic line was trimmed flush to the surface of the fuselage plastic then it was glued in place using acrylic gel medium to secure the line in place. (HINT: do NOT use CA glues. These will make the fiber optic lines very brittle and they will crack easily.) Once cured I then painted the end of the fiber optic with the Tamiya clear paint and also painted the back side of the clear lens the same color. I took some more sheet styrene and made a 0.5” square box. This will serve as the “light box” for the fiber optic lines. I drilled a 3.0mm hole on one end and four 0.5mm holes on the opposite side. I left the inside white and painted the outside flat black. This was able to fit inside the fuselage behind the cockpit wall. Using the acrylic gel I glued the 3mm white LED in and then installed the three optic lines and glued them in place with the acrylic gel. The fuselage was then taped together and using the 0.5mm drill, I drilled the tail formation light. Opening up the fuselage there was now a channel where the fiber optic could sit. This was glued in place with the acrylic gel and routed to the fourth hole in the light box. After the gel cured the light box was then painted with a second coat of flat black. (HINT: when using LED’s always paint the inside of the model as well as any holders for LED’s with dark color paint to prevent any unwanted light. Flat black paint is your best friend). All the fiber optic lines were then taped down and I added spots of acrylic gel to secure the lines against the model. Next was running the fiber optic lines in the wings for the wing tip lights. Again these were taped together and drilled into the wing to make a channel for the lines. For the port wing, as luck would have it, the landing light hole was near perfect size for the Pico LED. Some minor sanding to make it smooth then the LED was glued in place with acrylic gel. The optic lines and fine wires of the LED were then routed around the area where they would not interfere with the landing gear bays. They were taped down, glued with acrylic gel then painted the areas with flat black paint. The fiber optic lines were made 12”long because they would need to be cut to size once I am ready to assemble the fuselage. I drilled a hole on the fuselage so the optic line and LED wiring can access the fuselage. I will also need to run the power lines thru the wings. The plan is to run the power lines up the landing gear and use the wire to represent the hydraulic lines of the landing gear. Next up I will be working on the instrument panel and assembling the cockpit. You can follow along with more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f6f-5n-hellcat-nightfighter/

Wanted: Tiger Model 1/35 ERC90 F1 Lynx kit

Sun, 2020-06-21 17:46
I'm looking for a Tiger Model ERC-90 F1 Lynx Armored Car Kit (4632) preferably for trade, although I'm willing to buy if the price is right. I have tons of armor and aircraft kits/aftermarket for trade. US only for the obvious reasons. You can contact me at Warwheels AT gmail DOT com .Thanks.

1/72 ESCI Valentine towing a 6 pdr. AT gun

Thu, 2020-06-18 09:46
I saw a couple photos of this pairing from the Tunisian campaign and decided I wanted to do a model of it. The ESCI Valentine kit is very fiddly to get all the parts to fit correctly, but with much care, builds up nicely. I removed all the molded in handles and replace then from thin wire and this version has the length and link hard plastic tracks, which were very easy to work with, especially since I could leave off the entire top run of track as it was hidden by the sand shields. As it is towing the AT gun, I needed to add a towing bar to the rear which I made out of a truck spring suspension part. The Milicast 6 pdr. is much better than the old Airfix offering, but has a lot of flash and molding voids, like on mine the entire end of the gun barrel was just flash, so I had to "Dutchman" in a length of plastic rod. It also comes with the muzzle brake, but since the barrel just behind it was just flash, it was easy to remove. Before the 'scale police' chime in, yes I know that ostensibly the kits are in different scales, but I have found that some kits run a little larger/smaller than scale, and these two look fine together.

1/72 ESCE Valentine towing a 6 pdr. AT gun

Thu, 2020-06-18 09:46
I saw a couple photos of this pairing from the Tunisian campaign and decided I wanted to do a model of it. The ESCI Valentine kit is very fiddly to get all the parts to fit correctly, but with much care, builds up nicely. I removed all the molded in handles and replace then from thin wire and this version has the length and link hard plastic tracks, which were very easy to work with, especially since I could leave off the entire top run of track as it was hidden by the sand shields. As it is towing the AT gun, I needed to add a towing bar to the rear which I made out of a truck spring suspension part. The Milicast 6 pdr. is much better than the old Airfix offering, but has a lot of flash and molding voids, like on mine the entire end of the gun barrel was just flash, so I had to "Dutchman" in a length of plastic rod. It also comes with the muzzle brake, but since the barrel just behind it was just flash, it was easy to remove. Before the 'scale police' chime in, yes I know that ostensibly the kits are in different scales, but I have found that some kits run a little larger/smaller than scale, and these two look fine together.

Old decals falling apart!

Wed, 2020-06-17 14:03
I'm working on a Hasegawa 1/72 F-18 "World Hornet" that I started probably 20 years ago. The decal sheet looks to be in new condition, but several of the decals that I've tried to apply fall apart when I go to apply them. I had this happen to a Tamiya 1/35 Sherman, but those decals looked 'checked' on the sheet. We have well water, so thinking that might be the issue (although other than the Sherman decals I haven't had any problems), I tried distilled water with the same result. What I'm doing is soaking the decal in a small tray of water, after a few seconds I'll pick it up by the corner of the paper and test an edge of the decal with a toothpick, then place it back in the water. When approx. half of the transfer will lift off the paper, I move it over to the model and try and slide it off using the toothpick. At this point anywhere I touch it, a piece comes off. I tried soaking for an extended period and then slide it off with my fingertip (broader surface) but it comes apart as I try and move it. Is this just what happens with age? If so I'm screwed because I have a couple hundred kits I want to build now that I'm retired!

Revell/Germany 1/32nd scale P-51D-5NA

Tue, 2020-06-16 23:33
If your looking for a reasonably priced kit, with awesome detail, this is the kit to buy. All the parts fit together great. Little, if any, flashing to remove. A very nice decal sheet is included with two different build options. I did order an additional set of decals from Eagle Editions. The construction is pretty straight forward. I didn't have any problems. One thing that caught my eye when I opened the box, were the smooth wings. No need to putty those nasty rivets. I used Eduard photo etch for the cockpit, and undercarriage. I used a mix of Testors Model Master enamels, and Tamiya acrylics. The color of the plane is Tamiya Bare Metal Silver. The blue is Testors lacquer Chrysler engine blue. I used Pastel Chalk for dirt streaks, and engine exhaust. The pilot figure is from Eagle Editions. The mechanic figure is from Black Dog models. The crates and other gear, are from Value Gear. The Marston Matting if from Tom's Model Works. I'm going to add a little more dirt and grim to the plane. Chris