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New Review: British Nuffield Assault Tank A.T.2

Tue, 2018-05-15 23:15
The vehicle In order to break into the fortified zones on the European continent, the Allies anticipated needing a new class of vehicles, assault tanks, which placed maximum armor protection at a higher priority than mobility. Nuffield responded with 18 separate designs (AT1 through AT18), each design larger and heavier than the last. The AT 2, the subject of this kit, was never built, but served as a stepping stone to the eventual development of the AT 16, or Tortoise, two of which were built, but the war ended before they were needed. Don't be fooled by what looks like a turret on this vehicle. It's actually a fixed superstructure such as on a Sturmgeschutze. In the AT 2 version, it mounted a 95mm howitzer. The Kit read more View the full article

Kinetic 1/48 E2C Hawkeye Build Series, Part 5 Is Available

Tue, 2018-05-15 22:55
Installment #5 of the Kinetic E2C 2000 build series has been posted in the Buids Sub-Forum. All comments welcome.

Kinetic 1/48 E2C Hawkeye Build Series, Part 5

Tue, 2018-05-15 22:49
Hi all, Here's the latest progress on the Kinetic 1/48th E2C 2000. A recess in the bottom of the fuselage gives you the option of replicating the CEC (Cooperative Engagement Capability). This is the route I needed to go and I didn't anticipate any problem. I was wrong. It turned out that when the CEC insert is properly aligned, there's a .020" gap on the port side. Press the insert down for a tight fit and you wind up with a slight step in relationship to the fuselage. The solution is simplicity itself. All you need is a .020" x .030" Evergreen strip to fill the gap. If you're careful, all you'll need is a very light touch with a sanding stick to blend everything together. Now for the fun...installation of the wing center section. While the center section fits as it should, you won't be able to simply drop it in place and add solvent. In this shot, the center has been installed and snugged down with a couple of rubber bands. Here's a closer view of what it took to attain a proper installation. The aft end of the center section has to be pulled down with a rubber band that wraps around the fuselage. Because of this, you want to make sure the CEC is thoroughly dry before doing so. Then another rubber band goes under the fuselage and up over the wing stubs. Seen from the side, you get a better view of exactly the rubber bands were used to pull the center section down. Also, notice the internal detail thru the crew door. There's no interior detail in the fuselage beyond the cockpit other than this insert that allows you to position the door open if you choose. When everything's dry and the rubber bands are removed, you'll discover two problems in the form of seams that have to be filled. One, the largest, is at the aft end of the center section where you had to use the heaviest rubber band. The other's at the front and doesn't go all the way across. Just like the gap on the CEC insert, a strip of .020" x .030" Evergreen strip solves the problem. And the same thing up front. If you're careful, you'll barely need any sanding at all. The port nacelle is next and you will definitely need more rubber bands. Take a close look at this shot and you'll see that the heavier rubber band goes over the seam between the nacelle and the wing, then under the nacelle. In order to have continuity from the wing to the nacelle without a step, this is essential. Then another rubber band loops under the front of the nacelle,over the wing and under the aft part of the nacelle. This pulls the aft part of the nacelle up into position. Everything fits exactly as it should, but it takes this approach to get it there. Just in case you're confused by my previous description, this side view should help clarify things. I repeated the process for the starboard nacelle and finally wound up with what you see here. When everything dried and the rubber bands were removed, I was looking at a perfectly fitted wing center section and a pair of nacelles. Next installment you'll see how well things worked out before we tackle the canopy.

M-3 allied anti-aircraft gun

Tue, 2018-05-15 20:05
Is there a model kit of the 3 inch, M-3, allied anti-aircraft gun?

Some possible ideas for diorama techniques in this new book …

Tue, 2018-05-15 16:32
https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/miniature-models-of-famous-photos

Two Luft '46 planes

Tue, 2018-05-15 15:36
Hey gang, I have 2 new builds completed or should I say given up on. The Me. 1092 (the light blue one w/dots) was from Unicraft. Anyone who knows Unicraft kits knows it's almost like scratchbuilding the plane. The air intake in the front were simply holes in the fuselage. I had to create some sort of tubes to fill the spot and also double up as the front wheel well bottom. Thin soda straws fit the bill. Then the wheels were in such bad shape - it looked like the resin foamed during casting - that I simply threw them away and got a cheap-o Me.262 kit and stole the wheels and decals. The rear wheels were too big, but I used them anyway, and yeah these kits have no decals. Finally the panel lines were like little Grand Canyons, and I lost count of the times I filled and sanded. I didn't want all my German planes to be the RLM 81 and 82 (how it seems to work out) so I followed a paint job that was in one of the SAMI magazines. Then the dots seemed too dark. Finally I had the brain storm to mist a light coat of the base color and that toned down the dots. I was going to just draw the panel lines on, but was given a pep talk from one of the guys in my modeling club to scratch them back in. BIG mistake. I ruined it in a few places, but I didn't want to fill and sand anymore and just gave up. It's a decent 3 foot model (best seen from at least 3 ft. away). The Lippisch 13.B came from Anigrand and was a bit easier to work with. My biggest problem was again not wanting to use the same camo colors I brightened the light color and darkened the dark color. (I forget the RLM #s right now). But then when I needed touch ups, and why I don't mix paint, I couldn't find the right recipe for the lighter color. I knew I used Flesh, but doing a lot of Figures, I have about 10 Fleshs. (Insert pulling out hair emoji here). After painting the touch up paint about 5 times I found the right flesh, made the mix and just slopped it on. My last step was to stretch some sprue tubing to make the little gun barrels either side of the cockpit. Thanks for looking, but don't look too close.

Hawkers WWII Weather planes in 1/72

Tue, 2018-05-15 11:19
Tornado (Airfix Typhoon plus Maintrack conversion fuselage) Brengun "car door" Typhoon Heller Tempest V Matchbox Tempest II Airfix Sea Fury (rebox of PM kit I think)

IT's Pennywise

Mon, 2018-05-14 13:22
This bust is from the new remake of Stephen King's IT. Another very well done by kit by the Gillman. Being mostly white on white it went very quickly. Hardest part was getting the lines thru his eyes semi symmetrical. - for WIPs check out my post - http://kevtk.blogspot.com/2018/05/its-pennywise.html Thanks for looking.

Paint Rack Multi-brand

Mon, 2018-05-14 12:06
Hello friends, after a long time suffering from the lack of space and the discomfort of keeping the paint cans in boxes I decided to make a small piece of furniture to store the paintings. It has a great capacity and the possibility of being able to store different types of boats and adapt their capacity to the boats that have a specific brand. Made the wooden structure, aluminum supports cut by laser and metallic guides to be able to extract the boats. Greetings and I hope you like it

New Review: Finnish Bomber Colours 1939-1945

Sun, 2018-05-13 11:46
Kari Stenman has authored, or co-authored, aviation books for the past 49 years. He ranhis own publishing company in Finland, focusing on Finnish Aviation History. Many of them were in his Suomen Ilmavoimien Historia series that were originally in Finnish only, but later re-released with Finnish and English text. including: Ilmavoimien Historia 5 - Curtiss Hawk 75A - P-40M (1975); Suomen Ilmavoimien Historia 6 - Messerschmitt Bf 109G (1976); Suomen Ilmavoimien Historia 7 - Venalaiset Havittajat (1977); Red Stars: Soviet Air Force in World WarTwo(1993);Finnish Air Force 1939-45 (1998);Ilmavoimat Vareissa - Finnish Air Force in Colour (2001); Lentolaivue 24 (2001);Luftwaffe Over Finland(2002); Suomen Ilmavoimien Historia 19 - LeR4 (2002); Suomen Ilmavoimien Historia 22 - Koulukoneet (2003); Suomen Ilmavoimien Historia 10 - Bristol Blenheim (2004); Brewster F2A Buff read more View the full article

New Review: 1985 Oldsmobile 442/FE3-

Sun, 2018-05-13 10:53
This is a review of the Revell '85 Oldsmobile 442/FE3-X show car. I built it as a factory stock 442. Engine:Zero to very little flash was on the engine components. Two items I disliked were the valve covers and oil pan molded to the block. Should have been separate pieces. Interior: Extremely distinct engraving on the interior pan. Door panels are separate pieces as are the front seats. The rear seat is molded to the interior pan. Dashboard allows two different decals for the gauge cluster and there's two steering wheels. read more View the full article

"Steve Canyon" Returning to US TV!

Sun, 2018-05-13 07:54
Modelers of a certain age will no doubt recall the 1950s TV series based on Milton Caniff's classic comic strip. Reruns of the series are coming back to television! For more details, see here: http://stevecanyondvd.blogspot.com/2018 ... again.html I highly recommend the DVDs of the series to anyone interested in the USAF of the late 1950s. Note: I have no connection to the Milton Caniff Estate.

New Review: German Sprengboot Tornado

Sat, 2018-05-12 17:32
As WWII started going towards its end and the Germans were backed into a corner, they came up with some interesting ideas to try and turn the tide of the war around. Like the Japanese Kamikaze group, the German Kriegsmarine came up with the Sprengboot Tornado. The thought was to take two of the large floats from a Ju-52 Floatplane and add 7-800kg of explosives and provide power with the V-1's pulsejet engine. The theory was to get the boat up to speed of 53 mph having a pilot guide the ship and when close the pilot would take an attached boat or just bail out while the Tornado was remotely guided to hit the target. One of these was built and tested for sea trials but was destroyed as the allies overtook Europe. MikroMir has produced a kit of this very unusual subject in large 1/35 scale so let's look in the box. read more View the full article

New Review: Eduard 1/48 FW-190 Engine and fuselage gun bay set for new tool FW-190A-4

Sat, 2018-05-12 17:18
IPMS/USA thanks the Eduard team up front for sending us this absolutely stunning set for the new Eduard FW-190 series. I received this set when difficulty was experienced by another reviewer having some issues out of his control in getting the sets reviewed, so I volunteered and got "The lot". Hooo boy... Another note: right after I got the sets, I had work and a funeral interfere with MY life, so these took some time to get done; particularly since I was working out of a hotel (as I am now again on OTHER review items) so I'm a bit behind. First off, Eduard has produced some of the best sets, bar none, for the FW-190. In this review I used both the engine sets and the upper gun deck sets; here are my observations. read more View the full article

New Review: Japanese 250 kg bomb

Sat, 2018-05-12 17:09
Brengun continues its line of aircraft accessories with this set of two 250kg Japanese bombs from World War II. The set consists of two resin bomb bodies and a small photo-etch fret with the fins and fuse propellers. As you would expect with Brengun the resin castings are outstanding and easily removed from the casting plugs at the aft end of the bomb. My set had a little flash one the sides of the bombs from the casting process, but it was very thin and easily removed and the bomb bodies were quickly cleaned up. read more View the full article

1/76 Canadian Otter armoured car

Fri, 2018-05-11 14:34
This is a Milicast resin kit of this little armoured car. Terrible kit. Warped, flash, pinholes, you name it. Very little fit. Trashed the wheels as they were just tragic. Has a good interior, except nothing fits and the casting is terrible, so just closed it up. Decals are scrounged and cobbled together. Model is about 2 inches long.

New Review: Matho Models bird houses

Wed, 2018-05-09 21:43
Thank you to Matho Models for providing a neat diorama accessory for review, produced with innovative technology. Thank you to the IPMS Reviewer Corps for allowing me to review these birdhouses! Matho Models has a widening line of 1/35 scale details and bases. Their website has scale search options using larger and smaller scale product lines, but at this time, 1/35 dominates. read more View the full article

New Review: PBY Catalina exhaust

Wed, 2018-05-09 18:19
Quickboost has produced replacement exhaust parts for the Academy 1/72 PBY Catalina kits. The resin replacement is a simple drop-in for the kit's plastic parts. There is no modification required to the kit parts to use these resin replacements. A side by side evaluation (see photos) indicates a replacement of superior detail that will provide a more accurate rendition of the exhaust assemblies. Check your references for the appropriate set to use (some models of the Cat had a straight pipe exhaust). Be sure to wash the parts in soapy water to remove mold release agents and prime prior to using your favorite modeling paints. Also, remember that you must use epoxy or CA glue to attach these parts to styrene plastic. Highly recommended. Thanks to the IPMS Reviewer Corps and Quickboost for the opportunity to review this item. View the full article

New Review: PBY Catalina Fishtail Exhausts

Wed, 2018-05-09 18:11
Quickboost has produced replacement "fishtail" exhaust parts for the Academy 1/72 PBY Catalina kits. The resin replacement is a simple drop-in for the kit's plastic parts. There is no modification required to the kit parts to use these resin replacements. A side by side evaluation (see photos) indicates a replacement of superior detail that will provide a more accurate rendition of the exhaust assemblies. Check your references for the appropriate set to use (some models of the Cat had a straight pipe exhaust). Be sure to wash the parts in soapy water to remove mold release agents and prime prior to using your favorite modeling paints. Also, remember that you must use epoxy or CA glue to attach these parts to styrene plastic. Highly recommended. Thanks to the IPMS Reviewer Corps and Quickboost for the opportunity to review this item. View the full article