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Updated: 1 hour 32 min ago

Marine 1779

Sat, 2020-06-06 18:16
This is a 1/16th sculpt I've been working on for a long time. Used some extra time off to finish it. The figure is a Marine stationed on "the fighting top" around the 1779 time frame. My painting and photography skills are some what lacking any advice would be welcomed.

Paint on clear parts

Thu, 2020-06-04 12:44
Hello group. I am building the 1/32 Tamiya Spitfire. I cut out and attached all of the masking before painting the frames on the clear canopy parts. Of course, being a newbie I guess I was not perfect and paint leaked under the masking and onto the “glass”. Can someone help with the best way to remove the unwanted paint without damaging the canopy? Stuart

1/48 Revell Mi-24D HIND Helicopter

Thu, 2020-06-04 09:02
This next build I will be building the 1/48 Revell Mi-24D HIND Helicopter. For detailing I am using the Pavla Models resin cockpit set and the Master Model 12.7 machine gun and DUAS Probe set. For the scheme I will be using Caracal’s “Last Hinds of NATO” (#48104) decal set for the Polish Air Force in 2014 for the Mi-24D. Starting with the instrument panel, the resin panel has many fine details. This required some very tedious detail painting of the gauges, knobs, and switches. Then the same goes for the many side panels in the cockpit tub for the two positions.. The seats were then detail painted and installed. The resin cockpit as well as the kit fuselage required some minor trimming and sanding to fit together. The only tricky part is the floor of the cockpit to the nose gear bay. The top of the gear bay needed to be sanded a little to get it to fit with the cockpit. The nose gun turret came next. The barrels of the gun in the Master Model kit are resin and brass parts. They require you to trim the kit barrels off. I decided to wait until the end of the build to install the new barrels to avoid accidentally breaking them off while other work was being done. Next came detailing the crew area. I used some bare wire for the hand holds and different colored sleeved wires for cabling base on the reference photos. I also added some D-rings on the floor that were from my photo etch extras. Lastly I made a decal for the first aid box. Next week I will be the detailing of the fuselage and engine parts so the fuselage can be assembled together. You can see more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-mi-24-hind-helicopter/

J’s Work Paper Plant Palm Leaves

Wed, 2020-06-03 10:53
I wanted to pass this along to the group, for anyone that was interested . After looking at the Palm Tree in my Corsair diorama, I wanted to change out the Palm Leaves with something more realistic. The trunk was ok, but the Metal leaves looked hideous. I picked up J‘s Work paper plant leaves at my local hobby store . The most realistic I’ve ever seen. After cutting all the metal leaves off, I took a hot glue gun, and applied a good size blob of glue on top of the trunk to attach some green model railroad lichen. By accident, this blob of glue would act as an attachment point for each leaf. Because the leaves drooped so much without support, I added floral wire to the back of each leaf. The leaves could be formed easily once the wire was attached. I then simply inserted each leaf into the top. Christopher

Wanted: 1/350 USS Ohio Submarine Kit

Tue, 2020-06-02 13:39
I am looking for a 1/350 USS Ohio Submarine kit. I believe Dragon and Italeri both did one (same mold?) Please contact me if you have one you are willing to part with. Thanks!

Tamiya 1/48th P-51D WIP

Sun, 2020-05-31 23:38
The Accurate Miniatures F-6B that I posted as a WIP sometime ago is almost ready for color so I started on the Tamiya P-51D since it's too hot most of the day to do any airbrushing. I'm using the Eduard PE set that includes the fuselage details. Photo 1 is the left fuselage half. Photo 2 is the right fuselage half. Photo 3 is the instrument panel which includes 5 pieces of PE. Photo 4 is the cockpit floor/battery rack. I've been gluing the PE in place with Ammo by MIG PVA glue except the curved piece on the left side of the cockpit where I used CA. Glued the floor end & let it dry for an hour. Then put a drop of CA on the top section & held it in place for a couple minutes. A question for folks like Gil Hodges or Richard Marmo. How do you remove the stub from PE parts that you've trimmed off the sheet? I've been clipping them off using a small Swiss Army knife scissors then sanding the stubs off with an 800 grit sanding stick. I'm interested in knowing if anybody has a better method. Some of the pieces are extremely small.

KV-2 with ZIS-6 107mm

Fri, 2020-05-29 15:31
I recently finished this conversion. The KV-2 was used as a test bed for the ZIS-6 107mm gun to evaluate for the KV-3 and KV-5. The project was cancelled but a few photos are available of the test fire demo. I decided to build this as a what-if production version. Model is detailed with Voyager Fenders, Aber Barrel, Fruil Tracks, and Eduard PE. The parts that make the gun mount unique are designed in 3D... and printed on a Form 2. Finished Model. Additional images can be found here: KV-2 with 107mm

WD Models 1/76 Austin Armoured Car, Type III

Fri, 2020-05-29 09:53
This is a very nice resin model of this A/C. Most were sent to Russia, but after the 1917 revolution, that was stopped and the surplus shipped to France where they equipped a squadron in the BEF. It's off road mobility was lacking and the chassis was overloaded, so performance was below par and they were stricken off the lists after the war. I think some wound up in Ireland.

Cameron from Utah

Thu, 2020-05-28 23:51
New to the forum and just submitted membership. I currently reside near salt lake city. I run the YouTube page Wasatch Modeler https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3HWGgJ6SV2Kdc-4YxT5Wmg I primarily build aircraft but will build other subjects. I have attended 2 local competitions so far but have plans for my first nationals this summer. Thanks for the add!

US Soldier 1846 Finished

Tue, 2020-05-26 23:07
Here are some pictures of a 1/10th US soldier 1846, I just finished.

Nats 2020 Update: May 25th

Mon, 2020-05-25 22:05
As of today, Monday, May 25th, the IPMS/USA 2020 National Convention is still very much a go. I am in contact with the Embassy Suites and they are gearing up to get their staff back in place not just for our convention but others in June…well over a month before ours. The guidance that we are following is from the state of Texas: https://gov.texas.gov/organization/opentexas. Right now, the state is in the process of slowly “opening up” and we fully expect, while things will not be back to the “old normal”, they will be of a condition that we will be able to hold a convention. Tours: The two tours we were offering: one to San Antonio and The Alamo and the other the Fredericksburg, TX, are now cancelled. There is too much uncertainty with the destinations of the tours and along with poor ticket sales, have forced us to make this decision. While we have a fairly certain control over the convention venue the same cannot be said for the tour destinations…especially The Alamo as it remains closed with no opening date announced. For those that have purchased tickets we have started the refund process with the IPMS/USA Home Office and you will see refunds soon. I have taken the links to purchase tour tickets down from the Nats 2020 website and the same has been done in the IPMS/USA web-store. Vendors: while we have received a few vendor cancellations we still have a healthy vendor attendance with 77 unique vendors and 291 tables paid for or reserved. I fully recognize many of the overseas vendors are in more of a pickle to decide whether to come or not…we will honor refunds for their tables if they decide that the trip is too challenging in the next couple of months. My authority (knowledge-wise) on who is coming and who isn’t is with our team’s vendor coordinator, Craig Gregory. Our website was updated today by me with all the current attending vendors as well as an updated vendor floor-plan. Registration: We are extending pre-registration (a discount of $10) to the right with a new deadline of June 30th. This will give the convention registration team, led by Dick Montgomery, time to sort out all the pre-registrants and ensure their packets are good to go by the start of the convention. Awards: We now have several special awards listed on the Nats 2020 website. These can be viewed here: www.nats2020.com/contest_pages/theme.html. As with past conventions these are judged outside of the normal IPMS NCC judging that occurs Friday night. If you have a special award that you or your chapter would like to present please get with our awards coordinator, Rob Booth: rbooth@hctc.net. We are still seeking award sponsors. Each category is $88 to sponsor and can be purchased via the IPMS web-store: https://www.shopipmsusa.org/product-p/natsreg-2020-award-category.htm. Choose you or your club’s top 3 choices and state this in the comment box in the web-store item. A list of the contest categories with purchased sponsorships (i.e., those already claimed) can be viewed here: http://www.nats2020.com/contest_pages/categories.html. If you see a mistake on this page please reach out to me at director.nats2020@gmail.com and I will get with our awards coordinator, Rob Booth, and fix the issue. I urge any of you that have not purchased pre-registrations or banquet tickets (if you intend to attend the banquet) to please do so at your nearest convenience. This will help the convention planning team determine numbers regarding large, important purchases (pins, decals, etc.) that we have to make in June in order to make sure everything is in-place by late July. As I have mentioned in my last update, everything related to the convention is refundable from IPMS/USA in the event we are forced to cancel due to unforeseen circumstances (re-imposed government restrictions, for example) in the next couple of months. As usual, please feel free to reach out to me with any questions you may have: director.nats2020@gmail.com Len Pilhofer IPMS# 49932 Director, IPMS/USA National Convention 2020

Eagle Editions 1/32nd scale Maj George Preddy,

Sun, 2020-05-24 21:05
I thought the casting was great. The detail was crisp.I used both acrylics and and enamels. I did a wash of burnt umber oils thinned with mineral spirits for shadow. I highlighted all of his clothing, and gear with Naples yellow oil paint. The flesh was Vallejo paints. Base, shadow, and highlight. In an effort to dull things down, I sprayed it with Testors Dull coat. For some reason, there is still a bit of a shine on some spots. i’m looking for some help as to why this is happening. Thanks in advance.

1/48 Hasegawa F-104C Starfighter “Snoopy Sniper”

Sun, 2020-05-24 16:46
For my next build I will be building Hasegawa’s 1/48 F-104C Starfighter. This will be detailed with the Eduard photo etch. For the scheme I am building it as a Viet Nam aircraft. Caracal decals has a nice set (#CD48102) that includes 9 different markings. Three of them are the typical silver version that were part of the initial deployment and 6 of them have the Viet Nam camouflage scheme. I will be doing the camouflage version of the “Nancy J / Snoopy Sniper” (Aircraft 56-0891) that was stationed at Udorn Royal Thai Air Force Base in Thailand in 1966. Starting off with the ejection seat, the only part of the kit seat being used is the bottom of the seat. The rest of it is all photo etch. The photo etch includes all the seat belts and side harnesses. Once assembled it fit into the cockpit tub without any problems. The main landing gear bay then was assembled and detailed with some wires and hoses. The instrument panel was then built up and detailed. The fuselage was then fitted together with the cockpit tub and main gear bay. This is where I need to mention an issue with the kit instructions. Step 6 of the instructions has you install the cockpit and main gear bays then the fuselage is put together. The problem is in step 7 they have you install the instrument panel with the HUD section. You cannot put the instrument panel into the fuselage. I ended up cutting the front section of the fuselage apart so I could put it in. While it was not too difficult, it would have been better to install the instrument panel at the same time as the cockpit tub. Next I will be working on the landing gear and exhaust. You can see more photos and follow along in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-104c-starfighter-snoopy-sniper-1966/

Clear acrylic narnishes

Sun, 2020-05-24 12:52
I am seeking acrylic clear coats (gloss, semigloss, clear) to use. It would be mostly spray painted. I have been mostly using ModelMaster Acryl clear varnishes, but since that line is being discontinued, I am seeking other options. Can anyone help me find the best ones to use, based on personal experience? Any help you can give is most welcome. Thank you in advance. Bob

Dates for 2021 Nat's?

Sun, 2020-05-24 11:59
Do we have dates yet for Las Vegas?

P-51/F-6B Mustang Intake Colors

Fri, 2020-05-22 02:12
I'm working on a Tamiya P-51D Mustang which will be in Tuskegee Airman markings & an Accurate Miniatures F-6B which will be finished as Little Sir Echo. Does anyone know what color the inside of the intake should be? Neither kit gives a color reference for that area.

Gloss Paint Dried Flat???

Thu, 2020-05-21 17:57
I'm working on the AMT 1/25 scale 1953 Corvette model; circa 1996. Its a "snapfast" kit; I've always wanted a model of the '53 Vette and this must have been the only one available when I bought it. Anyway, the body is 1-piece, closed hood trunk and doors, molded in white plastic. I read somewhere that unpainted plastic looks like unpainted plastic, so I paint my car bodies. I shot it with a new can of Krylon gloss white paint and after it dried, the finish was flat! I figured the can must have been mis-labeled, never happened to me but stuff happens... So I finish painting the "chrome" trim etc. and shoot it with a (used) can of Glosscote - and it dried flat too! I live in north Phoenix and both paint jobs were done in about 80 degree weather, bone dry. Has this happened to anyone else? Any ideas? At first I was thinking maybe the plastic had something to do with the white drying flat but that shouldn't have anything to do with the cover coat. The instructions don't say anything about paint except a note on the box top about "no painting required". After the glosscote episode, I tried the Krylon on a piece of scrap and it dried glossy...

Hobby Town Store At 651 Alta Mere Dr. in Fort Worth

Wed, 2020-05-20 11:47
Can any of you Fort Worth or Dallas IPMS members tell me if the above Hobby Town Store is still open? Bob Walker - 17121 - walkerhollycat@aol.com

Model Master: Going...going...gone.

Mon, 2020-05-18 17:31
It has been reported that the entire Testors lines...incuding Model Master...has been unceremoniously dropped. While I don't doubt this...Model Master has been dying drop by drop for some time...getting confirming information from multiple sources is something else again. As of a month or so ago, Rustoleum stated to me in a phone call that the latest updates as to which colors...if any... would not be produced had not yet been determined, but that Model Master was still being produced. They did advise me that one of their warehouses was temporarily closed due to Covid-19, which is why some colors were not available or backordered. Today I called my local Hobby Town and all they knew was that some of the colors had been discontinued. No knowledge at all re: the complete demize of Testors. At the same time, I checked the website of Stevens International...one of the largest hobby wholesalers in the U.S. and the one many Hobby Town shops order from...and Model Master is no longer on their paint list. Additionally, Testor products of any kind take up a grand total of 1 2/3 pages. In order to be fair, I also checked the website of Megahobby...self-promoted as having the largest selection of hobby products on the web....and they list all of the colors from Model Master. That included Acryl, Metalizer, Automotive, Spray cans, etc. 95% of everything listed is out of stock. I know, I know. Most of you have already converted to acrylics like Vallejo and Ammo MIG and don't really care about the death of Testors/Model Master. Why does it matter to me? First of all, I'm trying to finish a vignette for a commissioned magazine article and I need the four skin tone enamel colors to complete it. I'm not really in the mood to change horses in midstream, especially since I've never used acrylics and don't have the time right now to learn. Particularly since I have a deadline, even though it is fairly loose. Second, it will impact my Modelbuilding Guide E-books, essentially bringing them to a screaming halt until I can adjust to the loss of Model Master. Finally, I have a call in to Rustoleum to try to get a definitive answer from the horse's mouth. I'll let you know when I hear from them. BREAKING NEWS I just spoke with a lady from Rustoleum. This is straight from the horse's mouth: "The Model Master...both acrylic and enamel...line, as well as Aztek, have been discontinued effective immediately due to declining demand." Incidentally, if you think you're all right for a while because you have a stash of Model Master, maybe not. Over the last couple or three years, chemical composition has changed to the point that paint that I bought two years ago has gone bad in the bottle before I ever opened it. This doesn't happen to every color, but it might be a good idea to check your paint stock. Now if I can find a flesh tone paint that'll let me finish my vignette! 5

Dune Sandworm

Sun, 2020-05-17 23:32
It's almost embarrassing to admit that this is another one that's been in my stash for a long time. I'm guessing that 90% of my stash has been there a long time (blush). But anyway this is a nice quick project. Sculpted by Kent Kidwell, it's a one piece kit with lots of details for the size. Going from memory I remember a lot of brown dirt in the movie, so I started with a red earth primer. I have too many earth tone paints in my collection and wanted the worm to be a little different at least, from the ground. So the colors of both changed a number of times. But it all went along pretty fast - 2 or 3 hours and I was calling this one done. Thanks for looking.
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