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Trumpeter 1/32nd scale F4U-4 Corsair

Sun, 2020-05-17 21:02
The kit had a few issues that needed some attention. EJECTOR PIN MARKS in some of the worst places.. Starting from the front, moving back, these are some of the modifications I made. 1.The propeller. I sanded both the leading, and trailing edges of each blade. They were so thick on the edges, it was funny. 2. The engine. I used Eduard photo etch to detail it. The Ignition wires took some time, but it was well worth the effort. 3. The cockpit. I used Eduard photo etch here to. 4.The landing gear. I used Bare Metal Foil on the Oleo's, and photo etch on the torque links. 5. The gun bay. I used scrap photo etch to detail the inside of each panel that was posed open. I cut open all the latched on each panel, and made new ones. I used plastic sheet, that I put rivet lines on, to line the inside of the bay. The .50 Cals were kit supplied. 6. The intakes on each wing root. I used photo etch screen to replace the kit version, and made new intake vanes. 7. The drop tanks. These were both void of any real detail. One of the big flaws, was no filler caps. I used online photos as a reference to scratch build what I needed.8. I used EZ line for the antennas. 9. The figures were Ultracast, and Blackdog models. 10. The cowl flaps. These bad boys took some engineering to make them work. I used Eduard photo etch for the Tamiya kit to dress them up. I also used EZ line to simulate cables for the pulley systems to open and close the flaps. All in all, an interesting build. Had a chance to try some new weathering techniques. The Model was painted with Testors Model Master Enamels (Insignia Blue FS35044). Any questions, comments, or critiques are welcome. Christopher

Marty Sanford's Tamiya paint mixes

Sun, 2020-05-17 18:19
Does anyone know where I can find Marty Sanford's Tamiya paint mix chart? TIA Bill

Tamiya 1/48 Messerschmitt Bf-109G-6

Sun, 2020-05-17 17:44
Tamiya 1/48 Messerschmitt Bf-109G-6, as flown by Constantin “Bazu” Cantacuzino during the LCOL James Gunn rescue mission. You can read the whole crazy story at https://www.historynet.com/pilot-prince-rescue.htm Additions include: Eduard Seat Harness. Eduard LooK instrument panel. Bare Metal Foil to hydraulic oleo struts. “Invisible” thread aerial. Exito decals. Erla Haube canopy sourced from EDU82111X overtree kit. Radio Aerial cone fashioned from plasticard.

Inside Wingnut Wings – what went wrong within the dream model company?

Sat, 2020-05-16 14:20

Ejector pin marks on a Trumpeter kit

Fri, 2020-05-15 23:00
Me thinks someone on the production line fell asleep. If you want practice on filling ejector pin marks, this kits for you. 1/32nd scale F4U-4 Chris

Guidance on 1/12 Alfa 8c 2300 Monza

Wed, 2020-05-13 13:24
Going to build the Italeri of above soon. They provide lots of screws and nuts for construction. My question, original construction of 1:1 would have been bolts and nuts rather than screws? Frame and running gear would have bolted up as opposed to large screws? Where visible I want it to look original. Fussing about little detail I guess. Thanks for the feed back. Phil S

Phil S

Wed, 2020-05-13 13:13
Hey to all. Rejoin after absent for around 40 years. I am a car builder. I did the other stuff long time back, now 1/12 and 1/20 cars. Mostly F1 stuff. Now building kits bought 40 years ago, the original issue Tamiya stuff. I will have questions about all the new after market stuff we never had in the goo old days. Maybe I can share info also. I know a bit about painting and airbrush work. Hope all are well and projects going forward smoothly. Phil

Looking for Alliance Modelworks 1:350 USN Hatches (WWII)

Tue, 2020-05-12 10:30
Looking for an Alliance Modelworks 1:350 scale US Navy hatches photoetch set. OOP and not available from the usual suspects. I have found a set of plans of the USS Sphinx (ARL-24) conversion of an LST at the Library of Congress/Historic American Engineering Record https://www.loc.gov/pictures/search/?q=Drawing: va2038&fi=number&op=PHRASE&va=exact&co =hh&st=gallery&sg = true I'm in the process of converting the AFV Club LST to the Sphinx. The hull halves, aft deckhouse, a couple guntubs, and minor details are all that will be left. The rest are sheet plexiglass and styrene strip and sheet. I have started using the Alliance hatch set and would prefer to not change manufacturer & style in mid-bulkhead.

U.S. Navy Training Film — Ship Hull Fundamental Lines & Sections

Sun, 2020-05-10 00:39
Here is a great tutorial for us landlubbers or those new to ship modeling:

1/48 Hasegawa Aichi B7A2 (Grace) Attack Bomber

Fri, 2020-05-08 08:18
My next build is the 1/48 Hasegawa Aichi B7A2 (Grace) Attack Bomber. It was a Japanese dive bomber/torpedo aircraft with a gull wing configuration. I will be building it as the torpedo version from the 752nd Naval Flying Group. As usual the cockpit is always the first thing that gets built and detailed. I did not like the kit instrument panel and the Eduard gauge film lacked character. So I went online and found two photos of a B7 instrument panel and made a decal of it. I then sanded the kit panel and painted it white. Added the decal then used the top part of the photo etch panel and then painted the knobs and switches as they were on the reference photo. The bulkhead between the pilot and gunner was shaved down and photo etch braces for the seat were added. I then added more photo etch details like replacing the kit pedals with photo etch and replaced the thick pilot seat with the photo etch replacement. The gunners seat had a burlap pad (made with cloth tape) and photo etch seat belts. I added some cables and wires to the cockpit walls and weathered everything with pastel chalk. As soon as the seat is fully dry I will weather it then assembly the rest of the cockpit. Next I will be assembling and detailing the engine and fuselage. You can see all the photos in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-aichi-b7a2-grace-attack-aircraft/

Kyaaten Build Log

Thu, 2020-05-07 22:56
This is another nice little bust I saw on the New Announcements group on FB. It's approximately 200mm and sculpted by Joaquin Palacios for Epica Tales. The model comes in three resin pieces - the bust, the arm, and the column base. You need to supply your own rod connecting the bust to the base. She also comes with her own sticker. It's an excellent sculpt and cast with no bubbles or seams apparent. Thinking Middle eastern I used a flesh that was a little darker than normal. I also gave her dark hair. One other thing is I goofed while drilled the hole for the rod. The bottom cut is a lot more steep than other busts, and in a Aves and a second try. It was right at this point of the build when one morning I heard a bang coming from the attic. I went up to investigate to find somehow a Starling had gotten in. Of course it flew around and landed on the desk knocking the model over and of course breaking the little knife she's holding off. A bird in the house must be bad luck as I don't know whether the bird or the carpet monster ate it, but it's never been seen again. I'll have a cut another out of sheet styrene. I've seen some that give her an almost completely transparent top. I wanted to try something close (never done it before), but maybe not as far as some others take it. I started out by covering all the surrounding skin with Silly Putty. Where the cloth pulled tight I only misted the off white color, and gave a little more coverage by her neck and waist. I added pure white at the tops of the wrinkles, and then lightly brushed on some of the pearlizing paint on the top and bottom for a little extra shine. The part that was the skirt got full coverage. On a different project I noticed that Green Stuff World's metallic paint behaved badly if put on top of a gloss black. But gave a terrific two tone metallic if painted over white. So I painted all the jewelry with white and then used a blue and red. The effect turned out pretty well. The parts that I wanted to be gold got the usual gloss black coating. I painted her lips with V's Cavalry Brown which is a dark red, added a highlight then to match up some of the metallic green I used elsewhere on the model, I gave her green eyes. A little eye shadow and blush from pastels finished off her face. Then I painted up the column base with V's Dark Sand, and pulled out my Mummy bust to remind myself of what I did with that base, then more of less copied it. The column looked a little thin so I found a 40mm plastic base. I glued the column on, and then filled around it with V's ground texture. A wash of Sepia on the sand, and painted the rim a black brown and I was done. Thanks for looking.

Goodbye, Testors

Thu, 2020-05-07 18:51
There are reports that Rustoleum ceased production of all Testors products today, May 7, 2020. Discontinuance of the Model Master, Pactra, and Aztek brands was previously announced on Testors’ Facebook page.

Goodbye, Model Master

Thu, 2020-05-07 18:51
There are reports that Testors ceased production of all Model Master products today, May 7, 2020.

Still trying to figure out the right colors for the Reliant

Wed, 2020-05-06 17:04
Thanks for the input about the base color for the ship. The color guide with the kit says to use Duck Egg Blue for the two large panel on the upper aft of the hull and for the large panel on the lower aft of the hull. From all the photos I can find it looks more of a bluish gray color not Duck Egg Blue. Maybe it should be the Intermediate Blue but that looks to Blue compared to what photos I've seen. Don't really want to mess around mixing paints, so wondered what anyone else used for these panels. Eric

Airfix 1/48 Hawker Sea Hurricane Mk.Ib

Wed, 2020-05-06 12:07
This is the Airfix Hawker Sea Hurricane Mk.Ib (A05134). I have finished it to resemble 7L, #V7015, the last operational Sea Hurricane and a participant in Operation Pedestal. The kit is beautiful and went together smoothly. However, it has some important omissions! Sea Hurricanes had a headrest mounted on the armor plate behind the seat. And on either side of the radiator housing was a catapult spool. The kit has spools, D41 & D42, but these are seriously out of scale; and there is no mention of them in the instructions. I had to use pieces from the Italeri kit to mold these pieces to correct the final replica.

Constitution deck

Wed, 2020-05-06 05:14
I’m attempting to build Revell’s 1/96 Constitution. Is it easier to align and glue the three deck sections before putting them on?

1/48 Hobby Boss F4F-3A Wildcat

Tue, 2020-05-05 23:52
My latest build is the 1/48 Hobby Boss F4F3 'Early Version', which I converted to an F4F-3A. I finished it in the markings of F4F-3A BuNo 3914, the first Navy aircraft to down an enemy plane in WWII. Flown by Lt.(jg) Wilmer Rawie of VF-6 aboard USS Enterpise, he shot down a Japanese Mitsubishi A5M4 Type 96 ‘Claude’ fighter over Taroa Atoll in the Marshall Islands on Feb. 1. 1942. The F4F-3A differed from the F4F-3 in several ways. The engine on the -3A had the magnetos on the rear of the engine, instead of the crankcase, so I used a resin replacement engine front without the magnetos. It also lacked inter-coolers in the wheel wells, so I left these off, and also removed the inter-cooler scoops from inside the cowling. The -3A also had single formation light on the fuselage spine, instead of two as molded on the kit. The -3A also had extra side braces on the windscreen, and one large cowl flap on each side, which the kit correctly provides. To complete the engine, I added thin copper wire to the cylinders for spark plug wiring. I used an Eduard Zoom set to replace the instrument panel and few other cockpit details. I replaced the over-scale kit gunsight with a resin Mk VIII gunsight from Quickboost, and the kit seat with a resin one from Ultracast, with molded-in lap belts. Shoulder harnesses weren’t installed until June of ’42, and the aircraft I was modeling flew combat in February, on the first offensive strikes of the war. I painted the cockpit and lower fuselage tub Model Master Acryl Euro I Dark Green, which to my eye closely matches photos of the dark bronze green color Grumman used early in Wildcat production. The assembled cockpit fit nicely into the assembled fuselage halves. Once major assembly was complete, I compared the kit to photos, and did a side-by-side comparison with my Tamiya Wildcat, and determined the kit sits about an eighth of an inch too high. I cut the axles off and trimmed a bit off the main struts, then re-attached the axles. On my Tamiya Wildcat, I used resin replacement wheels, so I used the leftover Tamiya kit wheels to replace the inaccurate Hobby Boss examples. The Wildcat I was modeling was painted in the blue-grey over light-grey scheme, and these colors have no Federal Standard equivalents. I used Model Master Acryl US Navy Blue Grey for the topside color. Based on photos of the Wildcats and TBDs found when the wreck of USS Lexington was discovered, I think this color is a good match. The bottom Light Grey color is more perplexing. All color references today state that the Light Grey camouflage color is the equivalent of Flat Gull Grey, FS 36440. But, according the noted aircraft historian Dana Bell, they are NOT the same color. Flat Gull Grey has a brown tint, and Light Grey was a neutral gray color, which is supported by the few color photos that exist. I wound up using Camouflage Grey, FS 36622 – not correct, but I think it’s a closer match than Flat Gull Grey. After priming with Tamiya White Primer, I airbrushed on the Light Grey bottom and Blue Grey topside colors. The F4F-3A I wanted to model was BuNo 3914, the first Navy aircraft to down an enemy plane in WWII. Flown by Lt. Wilmer Rawie of VF-6 aboard USS Enterprise, he shot down a Mitsubishi A5M4 Type 96 ‘Claude’ fighter over Taroa Atoll in the Marshall Islands on Feb. 1. 1942. All the fighters on that mission carried two 100lb. bombs. I robbed a pair of these small bombs and their racks from an Accurate Mniatures F3F-1 kit. The bombs come molded with the fins in the + rather than X configuration, so I cut them off and reattached them oriented correctly. I painted the bombs Tamiya Yellow Green, since they came from pre-war stocks and were not yet painted grey or green. The decals came from a long out-of-production sheet of famous Wildcats by Three Guys Replicas. The sheet correctly gives the 9 red and white stripes for the rudder instead of the proper 13, and makes provisions for the smaller, painted-over wing stars when VF-6 applied the oversized national insignia to their Wildcats. Overall, the Hobby Boss F4F-3 kits make fine models, and are great choice to model the first version of the venerabe Wildcat to see combat.

I can log in to the forum but not into the journal indexes? Is the password different

Tue, 2020-05-05 14:51
I can log in to the forum but not into the journal indexes? Is the password different? Thank you

Tamiya P-51D WIP

Tue, 2020-05-05 11:34
Hello fellow modelers! I'm branching out from science fiction builds and trying a WWII piston powered plane, the P-51D. I'm also using the Eduard Zoom PE prepainted cockpit detail set for this model, but I'm not very impressed by it. Don't get me wrong, Eduard makes great PE, but I probably won't be getting the prepainted stuff again. I've had to mask parts of it and the paint peeled right off leaving bare metal beneath it. Fixable? Sure. A pain? That too. The cockpit is pretty well done - I did some light chipping with silver and an oil wash of engine grease over the zinc chromate green. That was my first time using an oil wash I made myself versus a pre-packaged enamel wash from Tamiya. I don't think I'll ever go back, as you have so much more control over consistency and transparency. Plus the oil works as a filter, and doesn't dry splotchy like the enamels always seem to. I plan on hitting the cockpit with some matte clear tonight, then buttoning up the fuselage when that's all dry. If you've got any tips, tricks, or constructive criticism I'm all ears (eyes?).

Aurora 1/48 Sopwith Triplane

Mon, 2020-05-04 19:06
This one sat around a while til I got around to rigging it. Was trickier than the others due to that middle wing. Not my best effort, but still looks ok. Same deal as the others. Sanded off the decal locators, added a basic interior. Markings are spurious as the kit ones were too far gone to use. I thought the wing alignment would be fiddly, but it actually went together pretty easily.